Vietnamese Gen Zs Reclaim Their Ancestors' Garment Outwork Legacy
Jennifer Kiều Anh Doan's passion for fashion is deeply rooted in her Vietnamese heritage, influenced by her mother, Đại Nguyen, who worked in the industry out of financial necessity rather than creative choice.
Nguyen's journey began in post-war Saigon, where she was forced to sew clothes in her living room after migrating to Australia in 1991. This experience shaped Doan's understanding of Vietnamese fashion, which she views as a connection to her culture.
Doan, a co-owner of KIỀU Store, an online boutique in Melbourne, showcases garments designed by emerging Vietnamese designers. She describes wearing these pieces as a way to feel connected to her roots, appreciating the craftsmanship and cultural significance embedded in the designs.
Nguyen's decision to flee Vietnam was driven by the unsafe conditions in Saigon, now known as Ho Chi Minh City, after the communist reunification. This led to her and her family's migration to Australia, contributing to the larger narrative of underpaid Vietnamese migrants working invisibly in Australia's fashion industry, as documented in the 1995 report on fashion outworkers.
The graphic novel 'May ở Nhà' (Working from Home) by Emma Do and Kim Lam further highlights the experiences of Vietnamese outworkers in Australia, emphasizing their role as the backbone of the garment industry at the time.
Despite the challenges, many outworkers, including Nguyen, were mistreated and underpaid, causing shame and embarrassment for their children. This stark contrast to the current celebration of Vietnamese fashion designers adds a layer of complexity to the industry's evolution.
In recent years, Vietnam has emerged as a fashion leader, attracting Western travelers to Ho Chi Minh City for shopping. The country's fashion industry has grown, and young Vietnamese creatives in Australia, like Doan, are inspired by this momentum.
Doan's community-driven fashion pop-up stores in Melbourne showcase local Vietnamese labels, reclaiming a history of survival labor and celebrating the craftsmanship of their ancestors. Her experiences in Vietnam, including her connection to the youth and fashion, have shaped her perspective on what it means to be Vietnamese.
The launch of KIỀU Store in 2024 by Doan and Minh Nguyen, an acquaintance from Australia, symbolizes a desire to create a community for Melbourne's 'Việt Kiều' (Vietnamese people and their descendants living overseas). The store's pop-up events not only celebrate Vietnamese fashion but also serve as a bridge between their divided worlds, sparking conversations about heritage and migration.
Doan's approach to reconnecting with her culture and honoring her ancestors' legacy is a powerful statement, creating a space for other Việt Kiều to see themselves reflected with pride.
The Revival of Vietnam's Fashion Industry
Vietnam's fashion industry began to flourish post-war with economic reforms opening trade opportunities, leading to the establishment of garment factories in the late 1980s. By the early 2000s, a growing middle class fueled a shift towards homegrown fashion and design talent.
Doan attributes Vietnam's global fashion acclaim to designers' fearlessness, a trait she believes is inherited from their ancestors' wartime resilience. This fearlessness drives experimental silhouettes and boundary-pushing designs, shaping modern Vietnamese fashion.
Traditional Vietnamese dress, such as the áo dài, has been reimagined with exaggerated silhouettes, side slits, and unconventional fabrics, challenging conservative fits. While older generations may view these designs as extreme, Doan emphasizes the importance of generational tension in pushing culture forward.
The perception of Asia as a fast-fashion hub rather than a creative hub is also challenged by Vietnamese fashion pop-ups like KIỀU Store and Som Space, which showcase Vietnamese designers as creative innovators.
These pop-ups, according to Do, make her feel connected to Vietnamese culture, transcending family inheritance and fostering ongoing connections through people.
